Wine Reviews
Jancis Robinson – The Bunch 2020
Oct
HH&C represent the 120-year-old Cantina Kurtatsch in Alto Adige, and presented their Amos 2017 – a wine that charmed Julia recently but which I did not retaste.
The following notes are taken from Jancis Robinson’s Purple Pages, following the annual tasting with The Bunch in September 2020.
2018 Montlouis sec Rémus, Domaine de la Taille aux Loups
Stunning wine. Deep honey colour. Really nervy and exciting with apple skins and beeswax and SO much flavour packed in here but also with racy acidity. Reverberates on the palate. Just perfect! And underpriced.
GV 12.5% Drink 2020-2028
2018 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon Cuvée Guy Moreau, Domaine Christian Moreau Père & Fils
Correct and lively. But it does rather illustrate what value is available at Taille aux Loups! Very nice and deep-flavoured. Some hint of honey over the usual Chablis wet stones in this case. Serious wine.
13.5% Drink 2020-2030
2018 Chianti Colli Senesi, Campriano
Pale raspberry red. Not compelling but thoroughly decent on the nose. And with appealing acidity and tang on the end. The label looks potentially more expensive. Very much a food wine!
13.5% Drink 2020-2023
2018 Schiava Sonntaler, Kellerei Kurtatsch, Alto Adige
Extremely pale ruby red. Super-fruity jujube nose. And then convincing followthrough of cranberry fruit with insistent but light tannins right through to the finale, which lasts and lasts. Really very impressive concentration of flavour and delicacy without high alcohol.
GV 12.5% Drink 2020-2025
2018 Sancerre Rouge Terre de Maimbray, Pascal et Nicolas Reverdy
Transparent raspberry colour. Light nose with a suggestion of gaminess. I don’t think I would pick it as a Pinot blind. Perhaps the sweetness at the very end would give it away, but there is quite marked acidity and tannin. It’s far from a charmer. Pretty raw finish for the moment.
13% Drink 2021-2023
2017 Saint-Joseph, Domaine Jean-Claude Marsanne
Healthy crimson. Correct, fairly supple northern Rhône fruit on the nose. Really rather fine now – though I saw it did not appeal to Richard when young (see tasting note). Fine-boned with a good core of sinewy fruit. It doesn’t taste 14%. Another wine to drink with food.
14% Drink 2020-2024
2017 Givry 1er Cru Clos du Cellier aux Moines, Domaine du Cellier aux Moines
Bright crimson. Really very open and appealing on the nose – pure, accessible, sweet red burgundy. Firm, fine and fruity with real conviction. This would make lovely Christmas drinking – especially in a magnum (if we are to be allowed to celebrate with large enough numbers …).
13% Drink 2020-2030