2017 Château Bourgneuf, Pomerol

This property has been in the Vayron family since 1821, for 8 generations. The vineyards are superbly situated close to some of Pomerol’s greatest properties, including Trotanoy and Latour à Pomerol. Their finest plots avoided frost-damage in 2017, but about 20% of the production, from the lowest-lying sections, was lost during the freezing nights of 27 & 28 April.

The average age of the property’s vines is around 35 years, giving low yields of impressively concentrated wines. The 2017 was assembled from 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, with the wine now ageing in around 35% new barrels, a few of which contained the wine for its secondary fermentation, adding to the soft, luscious mouthfeel.

There are only just over 21 acres of vineyard, so this is a rare wine. We have often fallen for it, the 1st vintage we shipped being the 1981. Subtle adjustments in vineyard and winery since 2008, when daughter Frédérique joined her parents on the property, have significantly raised quality here. A 2nd wine label was introduced in 2012, for the produce of young vines, and Bourgneuf’s fruit intensity has consequently been magnified. “We have been very lucky,” says Frédérique, “with the trio of vintages 2015, 2016 and 2017. The 2017 has exceptional fruit, with floral aromas and a little more natural acidity than 2016, with true potential for long keeping.”

Our tasting of the 2017 showed rich purple-ruby colour, the nose combining red and black fruit aromas, very fresh. The palate is medium-bodied, with an intense ball of vivacious fruitiness, fine balance and excellent length. Tannins are soft and mouth-coating. Texture is rich and creamy, the finish showing bounce and exceptional length. This will age magnificently, and is a perfect candidate for bottling into magnums and larger formats (for drinking 2020-2035+).