2018 Les Parcelles Chardonnay, Réthoré Davy

This is beautifully expressive, unoaked cool-climate Chardonnay – both vibrant and generous, with citrus, white blossom and fresh bay leaves on the nose and a textured palate suffused with quince, lemon and a briney, grapefruit-zest finish. It’s from Christophe Réthoré’s 42-hectare estate in the heart of the Pays des Mauges, an area between Muscadet to the west and Coteaux du Layon to the east, and it’s a selection of his best parcels on schist soils.

A good partner for fish and seafood in general, including crab dishes (crab fishcakes with or without Thai spices, crab linguine, gratin, salad) and with poultry, although it might struggle a bit with sharp, sweet cranberry sauce and the usual barrage of turkey accompaniments. On the other hand, it would be just the thing to rally the troops or the palate on Boxing Day and it’s a great aperitif any day. 13.5%