Dom de la Grosse Pierre, La Grosse Pierre 2018 Chiroubles

16pts – 100% Gamay Noir. East-facing, 4-ha vineyard at 350 m on deep granite soils. Vines average 45 years. Yields 50 hl/ha. Vinification without addition of SO2, 12 days’ maceration with remontage once a day, max 25 °C. All natural yeasts. Stainless steel and concrete tanks. No fining or filtering. Bottled March 2019.

Cherry lip balm, marzipan, aniseed and a whiff of cigarette ash. Like your teenager went out clubbing for the night and came back smelling like she may have done things you wouldn’t approve of. There’s a goodly smack of juice, supple-leather texture and real substance. Dry finish, but nothing that a plate of charcuterie wouldn’t sort out. Really appetising and fresh. (TC)

Tamlyn Currin in www.jancisrobinson.com, 7^th Oct 2019